3.17.2011

Germans, Mexicans and Spanish in Hill Country, Texas

On our way out of San Antonio, we stopped to see the missions along Mission Trail. At Mision San Jose, Est. 1720, there were extensive repairs going on and a forklift blocking the view of the Baroque entrance. We wandered around, hoping that the workers would take a lunch break, and we could get a good photo. We sat on a a bench across, when it looked like the man on the forklift was spray misting his recent limestone work and soon to call it quits. He tipped his hat to us as we walked past and we told him that it looked like a fun job. Miroslav was Czechoslavakian, and called in especially for this work. His assistant was the great great great great grandson of one of one of the stonecutters that had built the Rose window on the mission, in 1720. Standing out in the warm sunshine, he told us about the highly detailed Baroque carvings, more detailed than most because, although Europe was moving to a more Rococo style, out there in Southern Texas, they didn't get the message. He explained how the sculptors came from far away in Mexico and really pushed the limits of their craft, by hollowing out sculptures of Mary and Joseph and the Virgin of Guadeloupe, so that appear as if they are floating out from the wall. He showed us the replacements and cleaning he had completed, and explained how the limestone was fantastically soft for carving, but in that arid climate, never really hardened. The history he shared heightened our appreciation of Mision San Jose.

We wandered into the Mision Concepcion, because Miroslav said that it was the most beautiful interior of all the missions. We said a prayer for our rig to keep taking us safely West. Lunch was at a local Mexican restaurant with spicy gorditas, chalupas, red beans and rice.

Driving through Hill Country was our first real test of our rig. It was hilly, and driving our home around sharp turns, uphill, and blind curves downhill, was fun until the refrigerator opened up and spilled its contents everywhere! Since it hasn't worked since we started the trip, we use it as a cupboard to store canned goods and the Britta water filter (which was full)!

First stop was Bradenton, "Cowboy Country." Save a horse, ride a cowboy! We went shopping in the antique stores and ended up at the 11th Street Cowboy Bar for the Wednesday night dance. There were cowhide, ostrich, alligator and snake boots, big ass belt buckles and well worn cowboy hats. We got ourselves some Shiner Bock, took a stool next to the dance floor to watch the couples two step, Texas Waltz, and line dance. We followed the mouthwatering scent of grilling beef to figure out that everyone brings their own cuts of meat, throws it on one of three community charcoal grills, and bullshits with the man standing next to him while they tend to their dinners. We had fun making friends and refusing offers to dance.

Next stop was Gruene, est in 1872, by a German American farmer and home to "the oldest continually run dance hall in Texas." We wandered around the dry goods store, the pottery studio, and had lunch in an old grist mill overlooking the Guadalupe River. It was a lovely country day.

We passed through Luckenbach, a well preserved 1849 trading post. Willy Nelson and Waylon Jennings made it famous in a song. The town has a dance hall and a post office. The slogan is "Everybody's somebody in Luckenbach." You can rent out the entire town for a party or wedding reception!

Fredericksburg was settled in 1850 by Germans escaping overcrowding and poverty. It was very apparent the genetics were in the area - we no longer felt tall! We perused more antique shops for cowboy boots and leather goods, and ate lots of German food. At dinner, Mary Lou ordered the Schwalbennestlr (Sparrows Nest): two hard boiled eggs wrapped in bacon, wrapped in ham, wrapped in roast beef and drenched in sauerbraten gravy. It was as big as her head…. so Nicole ate half! The town is known for General Nimitz, German Bakeries, and very wide streets.

Time to meet Kyle in Austin!


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